I first encountered Velberry back in 2018 at the World Perfumery Congress (WPC) in Nice. Developed in collaboration with P2 Science (think of them like a Silicon Valley incubator, but for Green Chemistry), Velberry was one of about five materials showcased to garner attendees’ thoughts and feedback. This substance immediately stood out, receiving enthusiastic feedback along with Herbenone (the ketone of Isopulegol; reminiscent of Thai basil).
The odour of Velberry is predominantly fresh, with sweet, fruity raspberry red-fruit notes and even woody, earthy undertones depending on who you ask to whiff it. Other people pick up on other nuances such as a creamy, bakery, crystalized sugar note.
The molecule itself is very likely the first Diacetate you will have smelled.
“Does that mean that if I like acetates, I’ll like this one twice as much?”
(Not quite)
One important thing to note about this material is that it’s one of those delightfully forgiving aromachemicals; allowing you to use pretty much any percentage from 0.5 to 10 or even 20% of the formula without weird notes, excessive linearity or skin burns (Iso E, Ysamber K before its ifra restriction, Berryflor and Fructalate are some others which are also “compositionally versatile” in this way). You can use eg. 2-5% in an oud composition to synergise with benzyl acetone-agarwood-smoke exaltation or 25% basically as a solvent in your raspberry and pomegranate floor cleaner formula. This is not a pretentious or prestigious material, just a really useful lego brick.
From a regulatory perspective, Velberry is what we might term a “clean-slate” material: free from all GHS or safety classifications and totally hypoallergenic. This makes it a hassle-free addition to your palette and creations. It also boasts a very impressive biodegradability profile, aligning with current environmental sustainability targets and disappearing in nature in about a month.
BASF are Masters of Mass Manufacturing; churning out tonnes of essential materials like Linalool, Linalyl acetate, Hydroxycitronellal and Citral. This foray into the molecularly innovative is therefore hugely welcome - partly because they produce at such scale that their materials are extremely price competitive.
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